Learning how to decipher an ingredient list is hard, but even if it doesn’t detail specifically what proportion of each ingredient was used to create the formula, it is a far better source of information than the product's description and pretensions. Thus, let's take a close look first at the biological ingredient and then at the rest of the components we use, essentially to transform a viscose fluid that controls the coordinated regeneration of damaged skin cells and protects the skin, into a gentle gel with improved moisturizing abilities.

The Primary Biological Ingredient

The primary ingredient in BIO SKIN CARE and in all our products is the serum generated copiously by land snails of the species Helix Aspersa Müller whenever they are stressed. Stress induces them to produce a viscous liquid substance to protect, moisturize, heal and regenerate its skin. This is also produced by the snail for several other biological functions, albeit with a different molecular arrangement or a diverse percentage in the molecular components. The intricate molecules the secretion encloses have been thoroughly studied and you can read all about them by clicking the links above under the title Helix Aspersa Muller Secretion.

How do we gather this rich substance? We use a procedure that is completely inoffensive for the snails, while it allows us to collect it PURE as it is copiously being produced by the snails, and undiluted in water to avoid the destruction of its enzymes and other molecules by hydrolysis.

Hydrolysis: A chemical reaction in which water interacts with an element to produce other compounds; involves the splitting of a bond and the addition of the hydrogen cation and the hydroxide anion from the water, resulting in the formation of one or more new compounds that do not have the same characteristics of the original substance.

The snail secretions in our products are NOT degraded, neither by contact with chemicals nor by hydrolysis.

We also embed the biological ingredient in a liposome, a microscopic, liquid-filled bubble whose walls are made of layers of phospholipids identical to the phospholipids existent in cell membranes. Liposomes are used to deliver certain vaccines, enzymes, or drugs (e.g., insulin and some cancer drugs) to the body. Liposomes attach to cellular membranes and appear to fuse with them, delivering their load into the cell. Sometimes they are taken up by the cell, and the phospholipids are included into the cell membrane while the substance (glycoprotein enzyme) trapped inside is released.

Human skin secretes various lipophilic substances which play an important role in the preservation of the skin. Chemically seen, these substances belong to the group of lipids, though they display differing compositions: glycerides and free acids, cholesterol and its derivatives, esters with fatty acids and long chained alcohols, polar lipids of differing natural, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbons. All in all a complicated amalgam of intrincated processes.

BIOSKINCLEAR™ has been formulated to transform a liquid with cell-communicating ingredients and biological activators of skin renewal into a GEL that also moisturizes the intercellular skin matrix by using hydrating Hyaluronic acid and Sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid (natural moisturizer present in human skin plus humectant Glycerin and Seaweed Extracts that contribute minerals for the growth of new cells .

Hyaluronic Acid - The Fountain of Youth

Hyaluronic acid as pure and concentrated as we use it, is a glycosaminoglycan present in the intercellular matrix of skin where it has a conservative, structure balancing and shock-absorbing role.

Hyaluronic Acid is normally found in the joints, the lower layers of skin, in foetal skin and in the umbilical cord. Medical grade Hyaluronic Acid is usually employed to diminish the appearance of post-operative adhesions, as a viscoelastic agent in intra-ocular surgery, also as a synovial replacement fluid; and is used to help with the healing and regeneration of surgical wounds.

The exclusive abilities of Hyaluronic Acid make it the ideal moisturizer. Hyaluronic Acid plays a crucial part in tissue hydration, lubrication and cellular behavior, and has the ability to hold more water than any other biological substance. Its incomparable hydrating abilities result in increased smoothness, softening and diminished wrinkles.

Hyaluronic Acid has also shown wonderful results in the reduction of dryness, itching and burning of the skin. It offers a perfect environment for the growth of new cells and healing following skin peeling.

Hyaluronic Acid is a main constituent of the extra-cellular matrix that circumscribes quickly reproducing cells. It has been shown to be an important factor in the quick and scarless wound healing seen in foetal and neonatal tissues. In addition to this, the cellular actions precipitated by Hyaluronic Acid are similar to the apparently magical biochemistry of foetal development.

It is well known that foetal cells have large quantities of Hyaluronic Acid and that decreasing Hyaluronic Acid quantities correlates with aging and wrinkling. This is the reason why any practical efforts to extend and recover youth by revitalizing damaged tissue should include this molecule.

Sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid - Natural Moisturizing Factor in Human Skin

A number of documents describe the value of the pyroglutamic acid radical (also known as Sodium PCA) in the field of dermatology and cosmetics, and especially the fact that the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid prevents dehydration of the skin and makes it soft, supple and elastic (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. (1984) 35(3) 171).

Sodium PCA is a naturally occurring component of human skin and a part of the "natural moisturizing factors" (NMF) that maintain a healthy epidermis. Sodium PCA is very hygroscopic , attracting moisture from the air. It imparts a moist feeling to hair and skin. Sodium PCA applied to the skin is absorbed to a limited extent. It is non-comedogenic, nonirritating to the eye and skin -- even at concentrations up to 50%, and does not contribute to phototoxicity or sensitization. It is rapidly biodegradable. Soluble in water and ethanol and insoluble in oils, it is used for its powerful humectant properties in many skin and hair care products including gels, creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners, lipsticks and foundations.

One of the primary elements in keeping skin healthy is making sure the structure of the epidermis (outer layer of skin) is intact. That structure is defined and created by skin cells that are held together by the intercellular matrix. The intercellular matrix is the "glue" or "mortar" between skin cells that keep them together. It helps prevent individual skin cells from losing water and creates the smooth, non-flaky appearance of healthy, intact skin. The components that do this are often called natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) or ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. While the oil and fat components of skin prevent evaporation and provide lubrication to the surface of skin, it is actually the intercellular matrix along with the skin's lipid content that gives skin a good deal of its surface texture and feel.

The intercellular matrix is the skin's first line of defense against water loss. When the lipid and NMF content of skin is reduced, we experience surface roughness, flaking, fine lines, and a tight, uncomfortable feeling. The longer the skin's surface layer (stratum corneum) is impaired, the less effective the skin's intercellular matrix becomes (Sources: Skin Research and Technology , August 2000, pages 128–134; and Dermatologic Therapy , Volume 17, Supplement 1, 2004, pages 43–48). Moreover, the skin's healing process is impaired. NMFs make up an expansive group of ingredients that include amino acids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, urea, linoleic acid, glycosaminoglycans, glycerin, mucopolysaccharide, and sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid).

All of the skin's supporting NMFs and lipids are present in the intercellular structure of the epidermis, both between skin cells and in the lipid content on the surface of skin. When any of these ingredients are used in skin-care products, they appear to help stabilize and maintain this complex intercellular-skin matrix. Although none of these very good NMFs and lipids can permanently affect or change skin, they are great at temporarily keeping depleted skin from feeling dry and uncomfortable. More important, all of these ingredients, and many more, can help support the intercellular area of the skin by keeping it intact. This support helps prevent surface irritation from penetrating deeper into the skin, works to keep bacteria out, and aids the skin's immune/healing system. Selecting moisturizers of any kind with NMFs (whether they are labeled as being antiaging, antiwrinkle, serums, lotions, or sunscreens) allows your skin to do its job of repairing and regenerating itself without the impedances brought on when skin is suffering from dryness and excess irritation (Sources: Clinical Geriatric Medicine , February 2002, pages 103–120; Progressive Lipid Research , January 2003, pages 1–36; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology , November 2002, pages 587–594; Contact Dermatitis , June 2002, pages 331–338; Journal of Investigative Dermatology , May 1996, pages 1096–1101; British Journal of Dermatology , November 1995, pages 679–685; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology , September–October 2004, pages 207–213; Free Radical Research , April 2002, pages 471–477; and Journal of Lipid Research , May 2002, pages 794–804).

Glycerin - Humectant

The products contain glycerin which is a humectant. This means it has the ability to draw water right from the air bringing it closer to your skin and promotes the retention of water. It helps improve the skin's defenses by filling in the intercellular matrix and attracts just the right amount of water to maintain the skin's homeostasis whilst helping the other skin lipids perform better. Glycerin is a by-product of the saponification process of vegetable fatty acids.

Comment: a wide range of ingredients help skin retain water (moisture). Glycerin is one of the more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. Some water-binding agents can mimic the skin's actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation; these include ceramide, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single one of these is preferred over the other because even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of skin.

Seaweed Extract

Seaweed is the name commonly used for various types of marine algae. Seaweed extracts contain cellular glyconutrients and trace minerals. They promote skin hydration as well as tightening of the skin. Have anti-inflammatory properties, toning, re-mineralising and rejuvenating properties.

Algae, in its hundreds of varying forms, are well-known ingredients and have been around for a long time. Algae have anti-free radicals or antioxidant properties (Sources: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, February 2002, pages 840–845; and Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, 2004, pages 219–222).

Free radicals are destructive molecules! Sunlight and pollution are major sources of free radicals. And while you can protect yourself from UV radiation, pollution, whether coming from auto exhaust or industrial pollutants, is ever-present. The very same oxygen we need to live is a potent source of free-radical damage, and that’s around all the time. Thus antioxidants are state-of-the-art ingredients to look for when shopping for skin-care products, and there are dozens available (with no clear-cut "best" choice among them).

Our seaweed extract increases antioxidant enzyme activities and provides a tool for manipulating the antioxidant system in BIOSKINCLEAR™ for increased protection against active oxygen species. It increases glutathione reductase activity. Superoxide dismutase and ascorbate peroxidase are also increased but responses differed by time and treatment rates.

Further to this seaweed extract is odorless, non-irritating and anti-allergic. Promotes the softness and moisture of both hair and skin. More specifically it inhibits oxidative degeneration of collagen and hyaluronic acid, which in turns can help to smooth out wrinkles and fine lines: a welcome anti-aging property.

An interesting component in alagae is Fucoidan, a type of glyconutrient that is being developed as a specialized type of nutraceutical. The main effective ingredient in Fucoidan is the fucose, one of the eight essential biological sugars. It has been included in the diet of Okinawa islanders for centuries and is attributed as one of the reasons why the region has one of the world's highest rates of longevity.

Preservants

The preservant we use to protect the gel from bacteria, yeasts and moulds, is a self sterilizing skin-friendly pH-stable system that combines a widely used, globally-accepted preservative (including Japan), phenoxyethanol, with a proven preservative-enhancer, ethylhexylglycerin, instead of controversial parabens.

Phenoxyethanol is an organic bactericide compound considered one of the least irritating cosmetic preservers with none of the controversial side effects of parabens. It provides a broad spectrum of anti-microbial activity against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, as well as yeasts and moulds. It is soluble and its activity is effective for our protein-based product and it does not react with the copper in the biological substance.

Ethylhexylglycerin reduces interfacial tension on the cell walls of micro-organisms, promoting their more rapid destruction and a broader spectrum activity.

Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin are synthetic ingredients derived from plants, and as many other synthetic sources they start as natural because everything comes from our environment; nothing is created via alchemy. We have yet to see any cosmetic that is "all" natural. Some synthetic ingredients are awesome for your skin, and regardless of the protestations of cosmetics companies to the contrary, every cosmetics product in the world contains its share of synthetic ingredients.

Final Product

The result is a product that contains ingredients that are antimicrobial, protect, moisturize, repair and renew the skin plus ingredients that mimic the intercellular structure of skin and are essential for helping skin function normally. Intercellular substances are those ingredients that exist naturally in the skin and work to hold the skin cells together. A dry environment, sun damage, irritation, inflammation, and age can all greatly reduce the presence of these substances in skin. Combining those intercellular substances with the biological active ingredient plus moisturizers helps keep the layers of skin whole, resilient, and in good physical condition by providing all the materials the skin needs to defend itself against pollution, hazards arising in the environment and events that trigger an inflammatory response from within our body.

The gel is manufactured in a state of the art Cosmetic Laboratory in the USA, based on Helix Aspersa Müller GlycoConjugates collected in Chile.